The 2006 narrowboat tour of Wales and England,
chiefly on the Llangollen and Shropshire Union Canals

SATURDAY June 10th Bill and I made our connection with Tom and Lyn at Pam's house in Portsmouth. We had been visiting with Pete and Trish Watkinson whom we met on our first canal boat trip in 2000. They dropped us off early Saturday morning, caught up with the news, and we said our goodbyes.

Dale and Ron playing on the aqueduct in Wales (Photo: Carol)

We went to London, making a circuit to pick up folks at various hotels, had lunch, and met the remainder of our party at the Chirk Marina. Tom informed all that we might not be following the itinerary at the end of the first week, since there had been a breach in the canal that might not be repaired by then.

We moved into our berths on the Hayley (Thad and Phyllis, Dale and Susan, Elinor and Walter, and Ron and Carol) and the Hayley Ann (Tom and Lyn, Lindsay and Jeff, Bill and I, and Donna and our indispensable driver Pam). Sally, who had to back out at the last minute, was with us in spirit.

Although the check-in with the marina staff seemed endless, we were finally on our way. We had been through tunnels on our previous trip, but the Chirk and Pontcysyllte aqueducts were a new and somewhat daunting experience.

Those are sheep down there (Photo : Vicki)

Imagine floating more than a hundred feet over a valley, with a river and fields full of sheep below. Then imagine that on one side there isn't even a railing! Late in the afternoon we moored at Sun Trevor, where we had dinner reservations, in time to enjoy libations and a gorgeous view of the Llangollen Valley from the picnic area, until our tables were ready. The guidebook says that the building has its origins in the 14th century, and is haunted, but I don't recall anyone seeing a ghost. Despite this being our second visit, I still have trouble grasping that there are buildings and identifiable ruins here that go back 700 or more years.

As is the custom “on the cut”, all travel ceases at dusk, so when dinner was finished, we went back to our berths for the night.

SUNDAY June 11th Since this day's travel included many areas where the canal was too narrow for two boats abreast, Bill went ahead by towpath to make sure no others were coming toward us when we entered those areas.

Narrow Llangollen canal (Photo: Vicki)

Susan and I also elected to walk the towpath instead of staying on the boats, and were able to join Bill several times. As we approached Llangollen, our next destination, we were far enough ahead to explore a feeder canal and return at about the time the Hayley and the Ann arrived. We watched as they maneuvered to get tucked into the mooring basin, glad that we weren't steering at the time.

After both boats were safely moored, Tom informed us that we were free to explore until 7:30 that night, when we'd meet at the Sun Inn where some entertainment had been arranged.

Near the mooring site we found the Llangollen Railway, a tourist train that goes to Corrog and back. A group of us got tickets for the next trip, leaving very shortly, and enjoyed a beautiful ride along the River Dee with stops along the way at small villages. We were informed that if we wished, on the way back we could get off at Berwyn, walk to Horseshoe Falls, then follow the towpath a short distance back to Llangollen. Pam, Bill and I elected to do that, and during the pleasant walk, found that we were at the water source for this branch of the canal. The “Falls” is actually a man-made weir that diverts some of the river into the canal. It's also a very scenic and popular picnic and swimming area and was full of families enjoying the nice day.

Horseshoe Falls (Photo: Vicki)

We checked in with Tom on our return, who told us we'd need to eat before the night's entertainment, and gave us directions, so we set out to explore. We found a lot of activity going on at the Royal Musical Pavilion, where huge white tents were being erected for the upcoming International Musical Eisteddfod, a week long event that happens every July. It “attracts singers and dancers from all over the world, who perform both in organized concerts, and impromptu street events.”

We located the Sun Inn, shopped for gifts which we dropped off at the boat, watched teenagers show off to each other by jumping from an impressive height off the bridge into the river, and then ate at the Red Rose, a Bangladeshi restaurant near where we were going that night.

At 7:30 everyone met at the Sun Inn, where the group Cockersdale, Tom and some friends provided an evening of songs, many of which we could join in on. A local fellow heard that Tom had been a submariner, and was quite insistent that he sing a submarine song. Tom finally took him aside and promised he would do so during the second set, so the fellow quieted down a bit, and seemed happy when Tom did as promised.

Ron, Thad, Dale and Carol deep in a lock (Photo: Vicki)

MONDAY June 12th We left Llangollen about 9:30. I walked the towpath for a total of 3-4 miles, occasionally joined by Bill, making ourselves useful spotting hazards for our crew. Lyn had established a standardized set of signals that we used to warn of bridges where the canal always narrowed, oncoming and moored boats, lift bridges and locks. There were two locks on this portion, so people got some easy practice on how to work them.

We were reversing our path, so we again crossed the aqueducts and passed the Chirk Marina, and saw Lion's Quay, where we would eat on the final evening of the trip, and on to Maestermyn Bridge No. 5 where we moored for the night.

Donna had heard about a Welsh Men's Voice Choir in the area, and Tom and Lyn were able to arrange for those interested to go to a rehearsal in a nearby school. Eight of us, along with Lyn and Pam made our way to the school, where at least some of the classes were taught in Welsh as evident from the unpronounceable signs on the walls (once we found out how Llangollen was pronounced, we made no effort to guess any other Welsh words). We were ushered to a row of seats at the back of the practice room, our presence was announced, and we watched in fascination as the opera trained choir leader coaxed and cajoled her subjects toward perfection. In a short time they would be in a prestigious competition where they hoped to do very well. When the rehearsal was finished, members came over to welcome us and ask how we were enjoying our holiday.

A bridge over the canal (Photo: Vicki)

When we returned to the boats, there was still time for some wine and song at the rear until Tom had to turn in. Since a narrowboat's cabins are arranged down the length, it's easiest if everyone goes to bed and wakes up at about the same time.

TUESDAY June 13th The day started out deliciously for those of us on the Ann, since Lindsay cooked us a breakfast of scrambled eggs, gammon (English bacon) and sausage.

Bill and I walked the towpath again, enjoying the rural landscape, bridges, cows, sheep and charming houses. When we got back on the Ann for a restroom break, however, we found that disaster had struck in the form of a hopelessly blocked toilet.

The marina was called, and a workman was dispatched to meet us at Ellesmere, where both boats moored for the occasion. Some of us visited the town and others took the opportunity to hike in the area while Tom and Lyn waited for his arrival. His attempts at repair left a bit to be desired, but we did have a sort of working toilet when we left.

The Railway Inn, Halmer End (Photo: Vicki)

It began to rain, the first of our trip, so it was decided to stop early at Platt Lane Bridge and have Pam bus us the hour's drive from there to the Railway Inn in Halmer End. We piled into a small room for a private party that consisted of a local monthly pub sing and us. As promised, “generous sandwiches” were provided by the landlord, and we had a wonderful evening of singing round-robin style, with Tom, Ron and Carol, Thad and Phyllis, Dale and I adding our voices and/or instruments to the talents of the club members.

A local fellow did a poignant song about a mining disaster from a dying miner's point of view, and afterward we were told that the incident took place over fifty years ago directly under the pub we were sitting in. Almost all town residents had relatives or friends who perished in it. That really brings home the human cost of such situations.

Grindly Brook Staircase Locks (Photo: Vicki)

WEDNESDAY June 14th Because of the early stop the night before, we started out early in hopes of making up four hours. We were doing pretty well, too, until we got to Grindly Brook Locks (remember that breach in the canal?). Tom had hoped that the repair might be done early, or if not, that we could proceed to just above it before having to stop. When we arrived at the locks, however, the lock-keeper was allowing only boats that had originated below his lock to go on. The rest, including us, were scheduled to pile up behind it until the official opening of the repaired area on Friday at 2 PM.

Tom had a long conversation with him and he took pity, putting us in the queue for passage early Thursday morning so we could proceed to Wrenbury Lift Bridge No. 20, still above the breach but closer to the next few day's planned activities.

A Whitchurch clock (Photo: Vicki)

Since we were stalled for the rest of the day, Pam took us into Whitchurch by van, where some of us had hoped to do some laundry, but the only Laundromat was closed. We were able to drop the laundry back with Pam, then shopped for food, books, souvenirs etc., and then we took a clock walking tour that we found a map for in the Heritage Center.

Our van (Photo: Vicki)

When we got back to the Tesco parking lot where Pam was to pick us up, we investigated some activity at a small stream nearby, which turned out to be a “Save the Vole” gathering. The animals looked a lot like rats to me. Everybody returned to the meeting spot a bit early so we returned to the Locks for a little local exploring or walking, then cleaned up for a pleasant dinner at the Horse and Jockey - Bill had a very tasty and interesting Stilton and Walnut Roast.

THURSDAY June 15th The lock-keeper kept his promise and let our two boats proceed through the somewhat unique staircase locks, a series of interconnected ones arranged so that a boat goes through all three in one direction, then a boat can come from the other direction through all three.

Beeston Castle (Photo: Vicki)

While the Hayley and Ann motored to Wrenbury Lift Bridge, Pam drove the laundry folks back to Whitchurch where our mission was successful, and we returned in time for lunch. We of the Ann then had to abandon ship while a new set of workmen replaced the carpeting (remember the stopped toilet? Don't ask).

At 1:45 all except Tom and Lyn departed for a tour of Beeston Castle, an impressive mix of ruins and much that was still intact. The view from the top made it obvious why it was never successfully attacked. On three sides are precipitous rocky drops, and the fourth is heavily wooded, with a view of another castle a few miles distant on a similar hilltop.

We returned to the mooring in time for avid soccer fan Pam to catch England playing in the World Cup at a nearby pub with big screen TV. It should be noted that Pam had been invited to go to the World Cup, but when Tom and Lyn asked, she gave up the opportunity and instead chauffeured us ducklings around for two weeks — HOORAY PAM!

FRIDAY June 16th We woke to find that the boats were out of water, so went through the electric lift bridge (special key required) to fill up. Someone in the queue to continue was a bit angry, thinking we had jumped the line, but settled down when it was obvious what we were up to.

I was acting as scout again, but wasn't in top form this morning. I opened the hand-operated lift bridge, then was about to come aboard the Hayley when it was pointed out that the bridge needed to be lowered immediately due to foot traffic. In fact a walker and two dogs were waiting for the courtesy, so I went back and lowered it, then settled in to raise it again for the Ann.

The wall around Chester (Photo: Vicki)

After fifteen minutes, having forgotten that she was watering and might not come right away, I resumed my walk, leaving the Ann crew to open the bridge themselves-luckily they had a second lock key. BUT, as Tom would say, and often did, nobody died.

We moored in Wrenbury, now 48 hours behind schedule. Since the breach wouldn't open until 2 PM and Hurleston Locks, where we would be switching to the Shropshire Union Canal was backed up, it was decided to have Pam drive us in to Chester rather than try to cruise there.

We had a very interesting tour of Chester, walking around the city on the wall for the most part, which gave us a great vantage point. We spent some time at an archeological site of a Roman amphitheatre near the visitor's center, where it was noted that since the dig began, another even older site has been discovered under this one. I'm not sure how they plan to handle the problem of how to preserve them both, but I'm watching their website at www.chester.gov.uk/amphitheatre/ for updates.

Chester Cathedral cafeteria window (Photo: Vicki)

A modern highlight was the Chester Racetrack, built on land reclaimed from the riverbed. There were beautiful old buildings all along the walk, most still in use, and wonderfully elaborate gates through the wall at compass points. There was a farmer's market going on near the Chester Cathedral, featuring cheeses, elaborate pastries and tasty lunch items, and even two opera singers entertaining the public. We couldn't tour the Cathedral because a camera crew was there to film the choir, but were able to see into some areas from the hallways. The cafeteria featured a tapestry, and over it a gorgeous stained glass window that I managed to get a photo of. We constantly bumped into others of our group during our travels, stopping at a very dim and locally inhabited pub for a drink when we saw Ron and Carol there.

Tom, Jim Mageean and Johnny Collins performing a cappella in the pub in Chester (Photo: Carol)

Marvelous Deranged Landlord (Photo: Vicki)

Everyone managed to show up in time to have dinner at the Cross Keys Inn (see signs referring to the landlord). After dinner we trouped upstairs to a room usually used by the local folk club, where Johnny Collins and Jim Mageean entertained us, along with some folks we had seen back in Llangollen, ending with Tom joining Johnny and Jim for a few songs.

Afterwards, Johnny and Jim came back with us to spend the night on the Ann.

SATURDAY, June 17th Jim and Johnny had breakfast with us, then Johnny left, but Jim stayed aboard the Ann to get a feel for navigating, operating locks and life aboard a narrowboat, since he's entertaining the thought of getting one himself.

Picnic on the towpath (Photo: Vicki)

After Jim left, the Ann's crew found ourselves quite a distance ahead of the Hayley due to a backlog at some locks, so we set up a picnic on shore to await them. We were quite elegant with our duvet cover blanket, wine, and some marvelous appetizers of pita , melted mozzarella, basil, olive oil and garlic whipped up in the cabin by Lindsay.

When Tom rejoined us from helping the Hayley navigate the gridlock, he had the pirate flag he had given them with him, beginning a days long mock capture the flag battle that kept us entertained as the flag switched boats at least once a day until the end of the trip.

We moored at Tower Wharf, a canal spur near Middlewich for Saturday and Sunday nights. Dinner was take-away Balti or fish and chips, and we spent the evening afterward making our own music, joined for a time by other nearby boaters.

Ron and a Morris Dancer at the Middlewich Folk Festival (Photo: Carol)

SUNDAY, June 18th Pam drove us in to the Middlewich Folk festival, where we spent the day at various entertainment sites, from tents and buildings to pubs where either an inside room or sometimes a large lawn were used for the performers. We saw some very good Morris dancing, Hazel O'Connor, Keith Donnelly, Breeze and Wilson, and Dear Gregory. Although it was generally pleasant, we had some difficulty getting food in a timely fashion, and found the pub sites smoky and noisy.

We stopped during the day to take in parts of a canal boat festival that was taking place at the same time on the waterfront, and saw a couple doing some very entertaining short plays.

Most of us congregated to have dinner at the same take-away. Bill's choice was sausage, chips and mushy peas, which he was surprised to find was served in a single pile on the plate—good though!

On to the evening's entertainment in an upstairs room at the Boar's Head pub where the Raven Folk Club meets. Some folk club members led the night off, then the featured performers, Tom, Dear Gregory, and Tim Laycock.

During the break I had Tim sign a CD, and when I mentioned that the song “Row On” a poem that he set to music was one of my favorites, he said he'd be doing it in the second set. He did do it, as his encore, and also did a fascinating instrumental piece to demonstrate how a concertina could sound like church bells, if the performer swooped it through the air as he played. Rather impressive, and physically demanding.

MONDAY June 19th We left fairly early, turning the boats and scheduling a water stop during which the Hayley passed us because we had the world's slowest hose. We discovered after a while that when another boat was using the one around the corner, ours would stop. After an hour, with the tank still not full, we went to meet the Hayley at Hurleston Locks. There was a considerable delay when a boat got stuck because a chunk of wood went along for the ride, hanging the boat up as the water went down. Dale and the lock keeper finally pried her out and got us all moving again.

Boat Museum at Ellesmere Port (Photo: Vicki)

Somewhere along here, Pam took Donna to do some laundry, and she, Lyn and Phyllis went to the hospital ER because Phyllis' leg was red and swollen from unknown causes. A prescription for penicillin, and she was on her way, at no charge (socialized medicine!) and was soon on the mend.

We moored for the night at Baddiley Lock # 3, and were finally able to fill the Ann's water tank and have showers.

Dinner was at the Farmer's Arms, with very good food but a puzzling policy of no doggie bags, so we had to eat it all. Bill and I even stuffed in a sticky toffee pudding with custard for dessert.

We were back to the boats by 10, where most of us went right to bed, probably due to a cold that we were passing among us. We hoped we wouldn't get quarantined by U. S. customs for bird flu on the way back.

Exhibit at the Boat Museum (Photo: Vicki)

TUESDAY, June 20th Back to Wrenbury, then into Ellesmere Port to visit the Boat Museum. Bill was feeling quite sick by then, with laryngitis and some chest symptoms, so he stayed aboard and rested.

The museum told the story of the canals and the boats that hauled freight along them, with insights into the lives of those who worked there. It was eye-opening to see the small cottages where as many as eight people might live, and the family boats where every nook and cranny had to serve a purpose because space was at a premium.

From the museum you can also see the River Mersey and Manchester Ship canal.

Dinner was at the Cotton Arms, although Bill wasn't up to eating. People, especially Lindsay, began “mothering” him with soup, juice and tea.

Ron and Carol in front of the iron bridge, in Ironbridge! (Photo: Carol)

WEDNESDAY June 21st Most of the crew went into Ironbridge to visit whichever of the Ironbridge Gorge Museums we fancied. I started with the Blists Hill Victorian Town, where people recreated working factories, shops, and everyday life of the era. I had interesting conversations at the Chemist Shop and the Candle Factory, and enjoyed the signs printed at the Printing Shop-how many girls would volunteer to be pickled and bottled?

Wanted: young girls for pickling and bottling (Photo: Vicki)

I went on to Enginuity, with lots of hands on things for the young and young at heart, then went into Ironbridge for a stroll, where I saw the world's first iron bridge, lots of quaint shops to browse in, a tea shop for an afternoon snack, and a scenic walk along the river.

While we were exploring, Tom decided that we'd spent enough time in Wrenbury and set about moving the boats with the help of Lyn and a fresh out of the sickbed Bill. The three (or 2½) of them maneuvered both boats through two locks to moor at Willeymoor Lock after wrestling with strong winds that kept insisting the boats belonged on the OTHER side of the canal.

Approaching Willeymoor (Photo: Vicki)

When the rest of us arrived, we dined at the Willeymoor Lock Tavern, again with the exception of Bill. He was, however, not averse to a helping of Spotted Dick (it's a dessert, not what you're thinking), having had about enough of a liquid diet. He was also beginning to grumble, so I knew he was getting better.

The cold and wind continued through the night, but things had been battened down pretty well, and we had no problems.

THURSDAY June 22 Left early so as to get to the next mooring in time to relax a bit, shower, and maybe hike a bit before the evening's entertainment.

We arrived at Whitchurch Branch Junction at about 2 PM, and most of us walked into Whitchurch. Since we hadn't yet worked out how to get from Chirk to the airport in Manchester at the end of the trip, we visited the library to get information on their computer. Ron and Carol and Susan and Dale were there for similar reasons. We walked back using the Sandstone Trail, one of many paths provided for casual hikes all through our travels.

Great blue heron beside the canal (Photo: Vicki)

We ate at the Nag's Head, then into Wrexham and Offa's Folk Club where we got to hear Mick Ryan and Pete Harris, for a wonderful night. We're familiar with a lot of Mick's songs through the singing of others, but we heard many more that we weren't familiar with, including a tribute to Cyril Tawney that was awesome. Unfortunately the album it was on was gone before I got to it, so I may have to request it by e-mail.

FRIDAY June 23 Early departure for our last full day on the cut. We spotted either three herons (or one heron three times) as we traveled, who seemed to invite photo opportunities.

When we stopped at Ellesmere to water, we were met by the van with our suitcases, which we packed and returned to the van for early Saturday departure. Lyn arranged for a taxi van to take Phyllis, Thad and us to Manchester Saturday, since we were departing from there.

Passage through the final lock of the journey was celebrated with a toast of wine.

Our farewell dinner (Photo: Carol)

We arrived in good time at Lion's Quay, a rather elegant hotel complex. While we were attempting to dock, Bill's sunglasses got knocked into the canal. The crew rallied around with homemade scoops made of colanders attached to mop handles to try to dredge them out, to no avail, but what a picture it made. When Bill pointed out that the glasses weren't prescription, the effort was abandoned, and we swear we sterilized the scoops.

We all dressed up for our final meal together, gathered at one long table to the curiosity of other diners. After a lovely meal and animated conversation, we did a little singing, including a ditty about the trip written by Elinor and Walter to the tune of “It's All Part of Being a Pirate”, and “Happy Birthday” for Susan, along with a cake.

The flag changed hands for the last time as we left the restaurant—also something that must have left other patrons scratching their heads.

SATURDAY June 24 Motored the last 2½ miles to Chirk Marina while eating, packing remaining food, and cleaning up the boats.

We evacuated the boats, sorted out the luggage, and took a group photo, thanks to a passerby. Exchanged hugs all around, Tom presented us with a narrowboat paperweight in honor of our second tour, then everyone scattered to their transportation for the last leg of the trip home.

Tom: nobody died! (Photo: Vicki)

Thad, Phyllis and we were ferried to Manchester by the hired van in good time. With a lot of the day still left, after we had found our respective hotel rooms and dropped off the luggage, we joined Thad and Phyllis for an afternoon of visiting Manchester. We had lunch, walked around downtown a bit, and saw an art museum (some of those friezes must have been pirates, considering how many body parts they were missing), then said our goodbyes and returned to our hotels.

We needn't have worried about waking in time to get to the airport, since the fire (false) alarm at 6:40 A.M. did a good job of that.

It was a wonderful time, nobody really noticed the things that went wrong (except maybe the toilet) and, as Tom says, Nobody Died! We're very glad we decided to put ourselves in Tom and Lyn's hands for a second time. We wouldn't have missed it.

The crew (Photo: Elinor, Scanned by Bonnie)